Quadrafire 7100 wood fireplace manual

I think the better simpler fan upgrade would be to boost the aux convection intake air duct. I don't know if you have this option installed but I think the fire place burns better with more air flow using the oustside air. Fireplace xtrodinaire doesn't even put a blower in the fireplace, their blower system is an external squirrel cage system. I would wire this on a current sensing relay picking up current flow on the black fan power lead.

I also have two heat zone kits piped into the basement which I am going to try to pull the heat out of the fireplace and into my furnace plenum. I have two of the dayton high temp cfm blowers which will run on a snap switch. I found white rogers has a variable snap switch. I am installing backdraft dampers and relays so if my gas furnace comes on the fans will kick out and close the back draft dampers. Email me direct for further discussion.

We're building and need to select our wood fireplace soon. Anyone have experience with a recently intalled wood-burning Fireplace Xtrordinaire? I was concerned about the negative comments I saw above, but since that installation was over 10 years ago, hopefully things have improved! How about cost?

Approximately how much should one expect to pay? Should we pay to dealer to install the fireplace, or just let the builder to it? Any thoughts would be much apppreciated. Maybe we just got lucky we have a and love it no real problems except the burn time really burns about 5hrs to get more than that you would really have to load it up and when you opened the doors the next morning you would have a mess with the ash.

The QF is highly rated by any scale. Of course, even highly rated products could have problems and fail. Typically, people with complaints tend to write much more often than the satisfied crowd. Even in newspapers bad news make it to the front page, while good news are on the last page After a long wait, we had our installed at the end of During weekends fri evening to mon morning it would typically burn non-stop, sometimes I would start it mid-week also.

When burning, it would keep our sq-ft 2 stories, quite an open floor plan at deg. Had to remove back and air chamber. Not enough heat. Finally ordered another SS heat exchanger and drilled two holes in the back of the firebox just below the chimney and above the blanket. Heats the water up to F with a real hot fire.

Never this must be a violation of Murphy's law will there be a problem of over boiling. Two snap disks Granger 2E to turn on the pump and keep it on. One on the hot side after it passes the insulated outside of the and one on top by the chimney to keep the pump from cycling. Wired in series. If this is the only heat source then you do not need anything but another snap disk maybe a variable temp to turn the floor circ.

The logic proved to be that if it is too hot in the room you are letting the fire die down. It turns out to be automatic - No fire the pumps turn off - I do not have to remember to flip a switch when I build a fire. Research the rest on line. Feed water valve, pressure relieve valve, expansion tank, one-way valves, air venting valves and of course manifold.

This is not going to heat a house like the hot air will but it nicely takes the chill off the floor of our sq ft sunroom and the radiation makes us more comfortable. As I say the colder the night the hotter the fire and the more efficient the system. If you want the SS heat exchanger go to www. I bought the first from the owner and later when I talked to Adam he didnt hesitate when he told me, "that will not get hot enough. I want to thank everyone who has posted to this thread, the information has been extremely useful in helping make my decision.

We are about to purchase this model and are working out stone work details with our contractor. It sounds like the QF is the right direction to go, but to be aware of newer models and upgrades that have come out since inception ie: bugs that were worked out.

I also sounds like a good idea to hold off on the stone work until the box is in place and "burned-in" to avoid the hassle of working in tight place, or possible removing sections to repair the unit. We're considering a winter river rock for our stone work. I, if anyone has a finish similar to this, we'd appreciate seeing pictures. I am in a similar situation. I want to replace a prefab open fireplace with a The guys at the store told me that all I need is to reline my chimney with a SS liner.

We removed a zero clearance vermont castings, and installed the They ran the sl pipe, inside the chimney chase same as yours, and we dont have any trouble at all with it. It is air cooled. We found out that it definatly heats and pressurizes the house, so much that we leave a window open upstairs to keep a good air flow and to get rid of the heat.

This fireplace was well worth the money spent on it.. Hi, I'm re-opening this post as I have some questions for those of you who've installed this unit. I have an old thirty years heatilator that I want to replace with this quad. I have a brick chimney with clay flues. Is this possible by replacing the clay flue with a new stainless flue? Does anyone have any ideas about cost?

Do those of you who have this unit up and running now still like it? Many thanks, salbwil. Hi salbwil. Just saw your response. We moved into our new house just after Thanksgiving of last year. After doing some research, I went with the In our old house, I had a Quad stove which is slated for the basement of the new house.

We have about sq. With some high ceiling areas, it takes awhile to get the area up to temperature. We use it as our primary heat source and we had a pretty cold winter in Kansas City. A quick review. Burns HOT!! We have a raised hearth in front of it that is great to sit on to warm up after coming in from outside. With a good burn, you can't sit directly in front of it.

If you get it going, then load it up it has great burn time. Will have a strong bed of coals in the morning. Remote zone kit. We piped one to the master bath. Works like a charm on chilly mornings. However, it will reduce the capacity of the fireplace to heat the living area somewhat. Clearance to mantle is 60". That means if you want it lower, no wood. It's a little tall, but looks OK. Bottom line, I really like this fireplace.

Compared to the stove, I don't think it heats quite as well. However, we wanted a fireplace, not something freestanding or that stuck out of the wall. And, like I said, we did heat our house with it. The furnace came on twice during the winter. Can't wait to get the stove set up in the basement! As to your question about replacing the clay tiles, I'll leave that to someone with more experience in that area.

Thanks, Andy, I wish someone would chime in about replacing the clay flue. The chimney person is coming in a few weeks, and I'd like to be armed with some information.

Salbwil, I'm pretty sure the chimney guy will be able to come up with a solution. I wouldn't think they would replace it, rather they would run the chimney pipe through your existing clay tile chimney. You may want to post this as a separate question. This forum doesn't get much attention this time of year. Hi, I posted as a new thread, but maybe will get a quicker response here.

Chimney man is worried that the clay flue will come down on him when cutting out the old heatilator as it is resting on top of the unit I understand his concern, but need to know what can be done to not have this happen After reading this entire thread, I am confused whether or not to get a I am used to an older unit that will bake you out of the room 80 degrees 2 hours after you start a fire with only 4 pieces of wood.

We are building a sf house and the unit I have is from the early 70's and pretty much shot. They don't sell anything like it any longer EPA regs and all that crap.

I would like something that puts out a large amount of heat, but I'm not crazy about all the problems I am hearing about the If there is so much dislike of the unit, can someone point me to a better unit, or is this a "you get what you get because this is the best thing out there" kind of thing?

Any reply would be helpful. All, I have a Fireplace Xtrordinaire, its a great wood burning insert. But I did not like how long it took befor ethe snap disk clicked on the blowers min.

The wires to my thermostat were burried so there was nothing that I could do with that. I have just cut the wires to the snap disk and connected them together obviously remove power to the stove first. This bypasses the sensor and the blower can work all the time. The only problem is that it doesnt shut off when it cools off. I may end up running a switch in there to control this, but due to the installation, I dont have anice place to put it, so I have yet to do this.

Hello All, I'm new to the forum but have been using a Quadrafire for amost 2 years now. Anyone know where to buy replacement handles black ceramic. I think that's a bit steep. Also anyone tried to put a reostat on the blower fan to slow it down a bit.

It's a bit too loud and I don't need full volume all the time. I bought one and it didn't work. Anyone know the spec for this device? Thanks for any advice. Heat Zone Kit question: We are currently installing a fp in the center of our sf ranch. We are wanting to use heat zone kits in our two back bedrooms, but don't know where to run the venting. Does anyone have an opinion on which is better, the attic or the crawl space?

The manual indicates either to be fine. My wife and I are building a home and installing a Look for entries tagged with fireplace. We are doing a heat zone above in the master bedroom. I am pretty excited about the prospects here. I am interested in how loud the blowers are going to be.

We have had our FP installed for about a year now. We installed on a gable end of the house with the vent on the outside. With lots of open space, if we keep it going we can maintain between degrees. Our boiler is currently not working so it is the only heat we draw into the house. Not more tnan a week ago, there was a big ice storm; which took out all the power in a 25 mile radius of us - the neighbors were at our house for the heat :!

With no power for 8 days and running on a construction generator it saved us Our only complaints which have also been mentioned above are the handles chip easily, the door gasket has started falling off and therefore has burnt almost to nothing. This has caused inefficientcy and a constant whistle between the missing rope. The ceramic blanket may need some attention in the near future. To answer some q's above - scan through some of the older postings above I did a cntrl-find and saw some answers - reostat blower, etc.

Does anyone know where you can get parts at a reasonable price? We have an immediate need to replace the door gasket. And maybe the ceramic blanket and upgrade the blower in the future. We are also looking at the It will be a secondary source of heat in a 2 story, sf house. We have radiant heat floors and they will not respond well to big or quick thermostat adjustments from what we understand so we can't just turn them off when we build a fire.

Also, we are building this house to be airtight - using sprayfoam insulation - so don't want to lose any heat through our fireplace. And don't want to have to open doors to cool down the house if the fire is too hot. One other note - although it will be a secondary source of heat, we do want the fireplace to serve as a source of heat during any power outage situation.

Some background: we are building new on acreage and had designed the house for a gas fireplace. But once out here we realize we want wood. It's free, abundant, renewable, and relatively clean we live in WA state so must buy a fireplace that meets our very strict emissions standards. But we are running into troubles with what is essentially now a retrofit - trying to find a fireplace system that will work with the space that was to be for the gas insert.

Looks like the quad will work, but is it really the right fireplace for us? Installed myself last winter during a rebuild. Must have gotten lucky with clearance issues to grout mentioned above.

Great heat. Wired fan to reostat switch so there's no problem there. Glass gets really dirty unless you have full fire grout cleaner and 3m pad works well to clean.

Home centers sell new gaskets.. Chase is covered in DD building paper and 4" stone, but they've told me the air must be coming into the chase somewhere. Anyone have a solution for the cold air flow? Keep in mind that we've eliminated the chance that it's coming in from any of the venting. I have installed a Quadra-Fire FP per the installation manual and had it inspected per our local building department.

We have been using the fireplace since December and it has heated our foot house fine. The outer non-flammable facing material is cement board. We have some concern about how extremely hot so hot you can't touch the cement board around the edge of the stove when the fan is running. When the fan is on, the area above the stove is cool but the area about 18 to 24 inches from the bottom of the metal fascia and about 4 to 5 inches out from the metal fascia is extremely hot.

You cannot touch it for even a second. The cement board will not burn, but I'm now concerned about the 2 X 4 wood stud behind the cement board. The very hot area is beyond the 41 inch width of the stove box shielding. Obviously, the stove is now all enclosed and I can't see the studs. Inspect door rope. Confirm glass does not move around in glass frame 4. Clean glass using a non-abrasive cleaner. Door Rope 1. Open door, place half of dollar bill inside, and close door.

Dollar Bill Test 2. Attempt to pull the bill out. If the bill gives good resistance or is not removable, the rope is adjusted correctly.

If the bill comes out too easily, the door rope needs adjustment to create an even thickness all around door. Air Intakes 1. Remove any foreign objects. Verify unobstructed air circulation. Firebox 1. Inspect condition of brick.

Chimney 1. Inspect for blockage or obstruction such as bird nests, leaves, etc. Page Firebrick Replacement 2. Firebrick Replacement The firebox of your fireplace is lined with high quality firebrick, which has exceptional insulating properties. There is no need to use a grate; simply build a fire on the firebox floor. Do not operate the fireplace without bricks. Be certain you have the proper brick in the correct location.

Measure the brick size for accuracy. After the coals are completely cooled, remove all old firebrick and ash from unit and vacuum out firebox. Remove new brick set from box and lay out to diagram Figure 4. Lay bottom bricks in unit. Install rear bricks on the top of the bottom bricks.

Slide top of bricks under clip on back of firebox wall and push bottom of brick back. Page Baffle Removal And Installation 3. Baffle Removal and Installation 1. Remove all ash from firebox, and extinguish all hot embers before disposal into a metal container. Remove the baffle protection channel by turning it down and pulling it out of the firebox. See Figure 4. Page Timer Assembly Replacement Removing the fan 5. Timer Assembly Replacement 1.

Unplug the wire harness. Lift fan from locating pins and remove. Connect new fan wires to wire harness. Remove both doors, outside air knobs, Fascia, and 4. Before installing the fan, make sure the grommets are brick. Page 27 Remove 2 screws Figure 4. Remove 2 screws from timer linkage upper arm. Figure when re-installing 4. Be careful not to drop Linkage Arm Move arm left down into fireplace Rotate assembly up and out through access door Figure 4. Figure 4. D cut side of timer shaft must face away from the Linkage Timer Arm Figure 4.

Place linkage control arm over timer shaft and tighten Figure 4. Page 29 Figure 4. Page 30 C. Negative Pressure B. Risk of Asphyxiation! It can be stron This helps to produce more draft, especially during lighting and die-down of the fire. This minimizes the effects of wind loading. NOTICE: Locating the fireplace in a basement or in a location of considerable air movement can cause intermittent smoke spillage from fireplace.

See Figure 6. Page Clearances B. You must comply with all minimum air space clearances to combustibles as specified in Figure 6. DO NOT pack re- quired air spaces with insulation or other materials.

Framing or finishing material used on the front of, or in front of, the appliance closer than the minimums listed. Page Frame The Fireplace 1. Fire Risk! Do not apply combustible finishing materials over any part NOTICE: The manual override switch, rheostat speed con- of the front of this fireplace. Wear protective gloves and safety glasses during installation. Sheet metal edges are sharp. Follow the in- structions for framing in Section 6.

Slide the fireplace into position. Be sure to provide the minimum 1 in. Page 40 1. Cut a 6 in. See Figure 7. Use 6 in. Insulate the pipe to prevent frost condensation. Attic insulation shield 3. Use the supplied termination cap. Seal between the wall and the pipe with silicone to chimney. If you are going to use this function for air movement The auxiliary convection lever is located underneath the you must remove the lock.

After removing the Fascia, remove the one screw and plate to allow the handle to be moved in the full motion right to left. Discard the plate and screw. Replace Fascia. Convection Lock Bracket Screw Figure 7. Termination Cap Chimney must extend beyond combustible roof structure Additional support for Maintain minimum tall chimneys height of chimney Page Chimney Requirements A.

Chimney Requirements NOTICE: You must provide support for the pipe during construction and check to be sure inadvertent loading has Vertical distances are measured from the base of the fire- not dislodged the chimney section from the fireplace or at place as shown in Figure 8. Chimney Termination Requirements Minimum overall straight height 13 ft 3. Chimney draft will be restricted and could cause over- heating and fire.

Straight chimney sections may be secured with screws. Assemble the Chimney Sections aged chimney components. Use only those components described in this manual. Substitute or damaged chimney components could impair E. Fire Risk The flex hose must never be compressed or deformed! My fireplace requires some unique installation steps, which the FireplaceBlowersOnline team was happy to help with.

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