Forza 2 car setups

Despite the fact that the game is barrier-less, there are invisible walls above many guard rails and blocking highways from the side. Different to its predecessor, Forza Horizon 2 will put a strong emphasis on combining its single player and multiplayer aspects - players will encounter Drivatars in single player mode while free-roaming, which will be replaced by other players when switching to online play.

Players will also be able to create Car Meets, where quick races, as well as custom design and tuning setup exchanges are possible. The skills system from the previous title will also be incorporated into a Perk system which will grant players numerous gameplay enhancements.

Introduced is the Horizon Wheelspin , which is only available in the Xbox One version of the game. Forza Horizon 2 includes more than events, with the addition of barrier-less cross country races that allow up to 12 players to participate. Driving challenges will be featured in " Bucket Lists. These vehicles are placed throughout the setting of the game.

Similar to Rivals Mode, new Bucket Lists will be continuously released or updated post-launch. Forza Horizon 2 features "over cars. In a Porsche expansion was released which features over 10 Porsches and a Porsche-themed Bucket List and achievements.

Forza Horizon 2 features the same 3 radio stations as in Forza Horizon but with 4 new ones:. Horizon Pulse - features laidback pop, summery nu-disco and electronica. Antiroll bars should be set to be the stiffest as well as this will help in redistributing the weight to the front tires quickly when launching. For damping, we go for soft front rebound stiffness and stiff front bump stiffness and the opposite for the rear rebound and bump stiffnesses.

This compounds the effect where weight is distributed to the front during a launch. Finally for our camber, we put the rears in a positive camber around 1.

Like drag racing, the rules to tuning drift cars are significantly different from tuning a normal race car because of the nature of drifting, where style goes beyond speed. Let us start off with tires. The front tire pressures should be set moderately soft around PSI while the rears are left to be at their softest. This allows for great amounts of grip in the rear while allowing for great transitions between grip and loss of grip which is pretty much how drifting is a controlled powerslide.

For gearing, shorter gear ratios are preferred to get your car to be close to full rev all the time which leads to wheelspin while allowing you to accelerate fast and keep the wheels turning during a drift.

For alignment, always go for fully-negative camber for the front wheels while going slightly-negative camber Front toe should be set to full toe-in while the rear toe setting depends on the drifts that you are trying to pull.

If you want more controlled and longer drifts, go for toe-out. If you want sharper and more angled drifts, go for toe-in.

Caster should be set to the maximum as it allows for better camber and the steering angle brought by the drift suspension makes sure you can turn on a dime despite this high caster setting. For antiroll bars, set the fronts to be slightly towards soft while the rears to be at their softest settings.

This allows for maximum grip while drifting. If you are experiencing too much grip, stiffen the rear anti rollbars by a little. For springs, they follow the same logic as antiroll bars, only that your rear springs just be a tad bit softer than the front springs instead of them being fully soft. For ride height, you should always go as low as you can go.

This means that the cars will get to lean a lot due to the soft bump settings but immediately straighten out due to the stiff rebound settings. For aero, simply set to their lowest setting as we do not really need them due to aero being largely ineffective when traveling sideways.

Brakes should be set to a completely front-biased setting in order to have more control mid-drift and brake pressure to be set to its maximum as well for more aggressive transitions. Lastly for our differential settings, we will put both acceleration and deceleration to the maximum as we want our wheels to lock up easily and consistently.

NOTE: This section can be ignored if you are building a drift or drag car as the rules on tuning for those types of cars differ very much from normal racing. That and class does not really matter with those types of cars. Before we touch on tuning, we will first take a detour into which performance upgrades we should prioritize as these go hand in hand with tuning. Deciding which upgrades to install into your car will also depend on the class you are trying to get your car to fit into due to how much Performance Index or PI points they add to the car.

We will also be looking at how effective these upgrades are to a class. You could have the best tires, but if you are only running a D-class car, those PI points would be better spent on another component like additional power. Below, you will find the car classes in the game and the performance upgrades you should prioritize and avoid , as well as explanations as to why this is the case.

The Platform and Handling and Drivetrain upgrades are pretty much a must because they unlock a chunk of the tuning options available to the car while adding negligible amounts of PI points usually they will only add PI combined to a car. For the Tires and Rims upgrades, these too add very little PI points to your builds while increasing the drivability of your cars.

In the case of the Rim Style upgrade, aside from being a stylistic choice, you can choose to equip the heaviest wheels in order to lose PI to spend on other upgrades. Lastly, I put the adjustable rear wing as a necessary upgrade for AWD cars only because rear wings on AWD cars decrease the PI of the car even though it benefits its drivability.

These upgrades are to be avoided at all costs as they provide PI but in turn, almost always make your car worse. In the case of the Engine and Platform and Handling upgrades, they add a lot of weight but return very little gain in either power or stability. You are better off building your car without these upgrades.

We will want to avoid this upgrade as they add a significant amount of PI for little to no benefit. However, you can upgrade this if and only if your stock tires are too skinny.

Skinny tires lead to an abundance of oversteer and to counter it, you can increase the front tire width of a car. In general though, it is best to keep it stock. D-class is the lowest available class of cars in Forza Horizon 5, it is also one of the most restrictive classes in the game because of how many of the upgrades you are restricted to because of the immense PI gains you get from them.

Cars in this class usually top out at around MPH but their agility and predictability more than make up for their lack of power.

When it comes to upgrading your D-class cars, power is more than likely the number one priority as they usually lack power but are lightweight enough to compensate for it. Their engines are also mostly naturally aspirated or NA , meaning air intake is natural and there is no forced induction something a turbo or a supercharger does.

Therefore, if you want a substantial power boost, you may install a turbo or a supercharger if your PI allows. In the rare instance your D-class car has a turbo or supercharger, focus on upgrading that element in the Engine menu. Otherwise, if you are strapped for PI, always focus on upgrading your exhaust and camshaft. Upgrading your exhaust provides quite a bit of power but it also reduces your weight by quite a lot making it a very cost-effective power and weight upgrade.

Upgrading the camshaft, on the other hand, increases your redline, making your engine stay in its peak power longer before shifting to a higher gear allowing for better power. As for the other parts in the engine, use them to maximize the amount of power you can get while keeping an eye on your PI. You can generally ignore the flywheel on D-class cars as the weight you reduce from it does not upset the PI you gain. For brakes, street brakes are more than enough for D-class as the speeds you will be stopping from are not high enough for sport and race brakes.

It also saves us quite a lot of PI points to use in more important upgrades. As for weight reduction, this depends entirely on you whether you will want more power or a car that is a bit more nimble. With heavier cars like the Hummer H1 and Unimog, you will want to upgrade this, but for lighter cars, you will want to look at engine upgrades instead. The upgrades found in the drivetrain menu are almost always worth it especially for classic and retro cars because of their slower clutches.

Upgrading your clutch will lead to better shift times, therefore faster acceleration. I would probably always recommend the race clutch to get the best benefit for very little PI boost. For transmission, you can choose to either go for sport transmission or race transmission. Sport transmission will let you tune only the final drive but cost less PI than race transmissions which let you fully tune your gear ratios.

Race transmissions also get heavier the more gears you decide to add. Since we are in D-class, the 6-speed race transmission is enough.

Lastly, you can use the driveline upgrade to put a bit more PI to maximize your build. It is not a necessary upgrade, but if you are looking to squeeze just a bit more PI to reduce your weight, then go for it.

Because of the PI added by any tire compound, we are forced to keep it stock. You can maybe opt for street tires if you want, but power will always be more important in races. This also applies to rally and cross country builds.

Rally and offroad tires cost too much PI for a car to stay in D-class when equipped. The effect of aero on a D-class car is very negligible so it is best to ignore these upgrades if you are looking for performance gains.

Engine swaps are sadly out of the picture as they just add too much PI to keep your car in D-class. Drivetrain swaps are also a bit useless in D-class as they add too much PI versus your stock drivetrain. This leaves us with the aspiration upgrades which are highly recommended.

If your PI allows, equipping a turbo or a supercharger will help a lot with the power woes. Equipping an aspiration upgrade also opens up the appropriate upgrade option in the engine menu for you to further increase your power.

C-class cars are a bit quicker than D-class cars. Most of the cars found here are classic muscle cars and classic sports cars capable of reaching speeds of up to MPH.

Just like D-class, you would want to focus on power except for this time, you will have a lot more room to upgrade due to the additional PI. Similar to D-class builds, you would want to focus on your engine upgrades. Due to the additional PI you are allocated though, you have more freedom in choosing your upgrades after your exhaust, camshaft, and forced induction upgrades. These upgrades offer a bit of power as well as a bit of weight reduction as well making them great secondary options.

With the increase in PI allocation, we can now look more into the weight reduction upgrades. If you feel like your car feels a bit sluggish in corners and in its acceleration, go for weight reduction. For brakes, we would still be going with street brakes as they are still a massive improvement from the stock brakes for the PI it gives out. Since C-class still deals with cars that are considered retro and classic, the clutch upgrade is still very much important because of its effect on decreasing the shift time of your car.

Transmission is still a matter of choosing between Sport and Race 6-speed only since we are still dealing with relatively low-speed racing.

Use the driveline upgrade to find that 1 or 2 PI that you need to push your C-class car to the limit. As with D-class cars, C-class cars can still function fairly well with stock tires, however, if you are building a car with a higher top speed, you might want to invest in street tires to offset the power.

The effect of aero on C-class cars is still quite negligible so treat it as an aesthetic choice rather than a performance upgrade still. With a bit more PI points at your disposal, engine swaps are a bit more viable now. There are some engines that will upgrade D-class cars to C-class and most of the time these bring bigger gains than upgrading the stock engine, so always try to see if you can engine swap.

Drivetrain swap is still a personal choice. All drivetrains on this class are still very much viable. Finally, with the additional PI points, you should always be on the lookout if you can equip an aspiration upgrade as they bring the biggest power gains.

B-class sees even more choices to choose from with modern hot hatches and modern sports cars entering the mix. Cars tuned to this class can easily reach a top speed of MPH. Power still plays quite a big part in this class, but the higher PI gives you more options if you want to branch out into a more nimble car with handling upgrades. The upgrade path in this class is very similar to C-class, just that in this case you put higher stage upgrades to the main engine upgrades camshaft, exhaust, and forced induction and pair it with lower stage upgrades of the other options.

Sport brakes can now be an option here as we are dealing with a lot more power than the previous classes. It also reduces weight which is always a great thing although street brakes can still be an option if PI is an issue. Weight reduction should also be looked at but not prioritized. Stage 1 or 2 is enough for cars in this class. Clutch upgrades start to become a bit less important in this class because of how modern cars do not really have much to gain from them. Only upgrade it if it still shows a reduction in shift time.

The choice of transmission is still between sport or race 6-speed only transmissions. Driveline upgrades are still to be used as a small PI gain upgrade In this case, it is to be prioritized over clutch if clutch upgrades do not provide a reduction in clutch times since it reduces more weight. Any tire compound below street should not be an option in this class anymore as the speeds are much higher and you will be needing the grip not only for cornering but for braking as well.

The same goes for offroad or rally builds, unless it is a pick-up or SUVs as they usually have decent stock tires that count as offroad tires. Aero effects on B-class cars are still not big enough to warrant equipping them so it is still best to ignore them for performance gains. Engine swaps in B-class open a bit more customizability and options for you as there are a lot of engines that put your right in B-class.

Consider doing these as they are a bit more cost-effective than upgrading your stock engine. Drivetrain swaps are still a bit of a waste in PI as all drivetrains in this class are still viable. As for forced induction, it is always a good addition to the car in this class, so long as your PI allows it.

But it is always a good thing to prioritize it in this class. Moving on up to A-class which is considered to be the mid-range class. Some supercars make their way in this class, but you will most likely be seeing tuned-up retro and classic cars here as their starting PI lead to some crazy builds. The increased PI definitely opens up a lot more options when it comes to engines. Just continue getting the higher stages of the main engine upgrades, and if they are maxed, max out the others as well.

Power plays a huge part in A-class so try and prioritize this as much as possible. Caster Caster is the leaning front to back vertically of the front axle.

Positive caster is when the wheel is tilted back toward the rear of the vehicle. Negative caster is when the wheel is tilted forward toward the front of the vehicle.

More positive caster will make your car easier to drive, and stable on the straights and bumpy sections. Less positive caster will make your car react quicker to steering inputs. It will also give it more front bite in the corners.

Less caster will make your car twitchy on the straights and out of corners. Differential The differential is a gear assembly located at the rear of the car. In some games, you are allowed to change the differential gears, allowing different ratios for different size tracks.

Final Drive of the differential, remember these key notes Smaller number ie, 2. This also means, however, less top speed and, in some cases, lower fuel mileage. Used mostly for short tracks or tracks with a lot of low speed turns. Higher number ie, 6. This also means slower acceleration. Used on tracks with long straights or ovals. This creates a posi-traction rear end. Posi-traction rear ends are designed to provide traction when one wheel has more traction than the other. Decrease this setting to increase off-throttle oversteer.

Set correctly, this setting will help a car rotate though the corner with a small amount of drift. When a 4WD car accelerates, weight is shifted to the rear wheels especially high-powered vehicles. That lightens the load on the front, causing the front wheels to spin, wasting power. The center differential adjustment adjusts the power transfer between the front and rear drive wheels.

Ride Height Ride Height is the distance measured, in inches, from the bottom of the chassis to the ground. The lower your ride height, the lower your CG center of gravity.

The lower the CG, the lower the overall vehicle weight will be to the ground. The lower the weight, the less weight transfer will occur during cornering. Either raise the front or switch to a stiffer spring. Remember, however, that if you raise the front, you will also change the amount of roll the front of the car will have.

Either raise the rear or switch to a stiffer spring. Remember, if you raise the rear, you will also change the amount of roll the rear of the car will have. This is, of course, dependent on the rest of the setup. This is because more air is now flowing over the rear wing as it is now higher in the air. Also, because of this, it will reduce top speed. If you run a slightly higher rear end, you should be able to lower the wing setting. Shocks Shocks are designed to control the suspensions up bound, or compression and down rebound, or droop movement caused by bumps in the road.

They also play a major roll in controlling how quickly weight transfers during acceleration and braking. In general, the stiffer the shock, the less grip that end of the car will have in the corners. On the track, when you accelerate, the front of the car raises rebound and the rear squats bound.

When you brake, the front dives bound and the rear raises rebound. Now, tuning that to win is another story. Remember, to soft will cause the car to bottom out. This may also make a car unstable during acceleration. This may cause the car to under steer exiting corners. This will help, however, in straight line acceleration. Springs The general purpose of the springs is to keep the car level during acceleration, braking, and cornering.